Preface

I spontaneously booked this trip whilst I was still working in the sticks of the Tasmanian countryside – determined to have something to look forward to once I’d returned home to the UK. Stumbling across the advertisement for Amphi Festival in Cologne, I saw the musicians Lebanon Hanover were performing and decided to take that as a sign to buy 2 tickets for my boyfriend(Dan) and I, eager to get the opportunity to explore a European city again after being on the other side of the world for the past 2.5 years.

A Brief introduction

Cologne, or Köln as its locally known, is one of Germany’s oldest major cities and has a deep history spanning all the way back to 50AD when it was founded. It’s placement on the Rhine River means Cologne played an integral role in the growth of the Roman Empire throughout Europe; allowing many different cultures, traditions and people to pass through the city gates – turning Köln into the creative melting pot it is today.

There is something for everyone to enjoy, from alternative music scenes to the annual Karneval which transforms the city into a hive of musical celebrations and so much more, it kickstarts on the 11th of November at exactly 11.11AM and the party carries on for several months! There is food and drink aplenty to taste test, enjoy the local Kölsch beers at a renowned brauhaus and take the chance to sit on the street verandas to soak up the atmosphere.

I’ll go into further detail as I guide you through our antics….

Day #1

We landed at Köln Bonn airport mid-morning ready and raring to go, with a couple of hours to kill before check-in, a preliminary scope of the area was of course needed. After surviving trying to figure out a foreign and unfamiliar transport system, we hopped on the S-Bahn (the train) and peered excitedly out of the window to get our first glimpse of where we’d be spending the weekend. It doesn’t take long to get to the city centre and approximately 20 minutes later we’d arrived at Hauptbahnof station – let the fun begin!

As soon as you step foot out of the station you are face to face with the city’s prized possession, Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral). To say we were speechless at its sheer size and beauty would be an understatement, the stonework is so intricate and certainly adds to the looming presence it exudes as it towers over us mere mortals below. After a quick lap, we moved of from the Dom (we’ll return later, don’t worry) in search of caffeine.

Brew and pastry scoffed, and we were on the move again. We decided to check out the Belgisches Viertel (Belgian Quarter) as research told us it was the cool place to be and a good place to have a nosy around. It’s roughly a 30-minute walk from the Dom but it’s a pleasant experience, passing through bustling streets as the locals get on with their day.

The area is called this as it derives from the street names of the surrounding area, relating back to Belgian cities and provinces. I found the Quarter lovely, alfresco seating of cafes and restaurants line the pavements and lots of little boutique shops to wander around. It’s a popular neighbourhood for a reason, centred around the Roman Inspired St Michael’s church this district is appealing to the eye and draws visitors in with its ornate architecture and stylish feel.

The early start to the day was starting to catch up to us, but luckily it was time to check-in. We stayed in the Lowenbrau Hotel and Restaurant; I loved everything about it. It’s located on the riverside not too far away from the Cathedral, perfect for people-watching on the bustling waterfront. The architecture was spectacular and the interior of the restaurant had an eclectic, old style European feel with low lighting and hundreds of paintings adorning the walls. Our room had a picturesque view over the water and decorated in a charming traditional manner. It was an excellent base to do all our exploring from.

Then I had a nap…

Whilst I was snoozing Dan did some research about the city and discovered the regional culture of drinking Kölsch, so the evenings mission was to locate some.

We had dinner at the Brauhaus Sünner im Walfisch and what a treat! The atmosphere was lively, the place teeming with travellers and locals both enjoying the warm Friday evening. We were welcomed warmly by the staff and our hopes for a good meal was optimistic.

But before any of that we must talk about the Kölsch, a light beer crafted in Cologne at the local brauhaus’ (brewhouses) and distributed around the city for people to enjoy. There’s a whole practice to drinking Kölsch which begins with the unique way it’s served; Upon sitting down at your table, the waiter serving you will greet you with a large tray carrying small glasses of beer, one of which they’ll place on your beermat, the novelty is you never have to get up to order another drink as the waiter will promptly replace your empty glass with a fresh one, putting a tally mark onto your beermat every time they replace your Kölsch. The people of Cologne hate a warm beer, so this table service of steadily switching your 200ml glass means you’ll always have a nice cold bev! And when you’ve had enough, simply put your beermat on top of your glass to signify you’ve had your fill. Very efficient, very effective.

Onto the food, specialising in hearty traditional dishes the restaurant didn’t disappoint. Dan particularly enjoyed his meal "Himmel & Ääd" op Walfisch Aat (apples, leek and mashed potatoes with fried black pudding) – ‘Heaven and Earth’ is a German comfort food that’s guaranteed to leave you in a satisfied food coma. In Dan’s words ‘It’s unlike any other English black pudding I’ve ever had before’ and I can confirm he nearly licked the plate clean – top points!

It was time for bed now, so a gentle stroll back to the hotel before getting some rest for the next day of antics.

Day #2

The first thing on the agenda was a walking tour of the famous Melaten Cemetery, located in what once was the outskirts of the city and housed a leper colony. There are many stories and legends surrounding this area and within the cemetery gates lie many people of interest, along with beautifully displayed architecture sprawled out amongst flourishing greenery. This is one of the activities I was most excited about, anything to do with death and history and I’m there!

We met with our lovely guide from Freewalk Cologne at the front gate, where she gave us a summary of Melaten’s history before leading us around to discuss the iconography of the gravestones and the significance of their symbols – she was very informative and made sure to include an array of different stylistic periods from Baroque to Napoleanoic era war memorials.

Here are some of my favourite facts and highlights:

· The Avenue of Millions

This section of the cemetery holds Cologne’s wealthiest and most prominent members of society, from prolific businessman to established aristocracy.The walk down this tranquil pathway teaches you about life’s grandeurs – even in death. Impressive monuments are surrounded by swaying trees, some statues are made of out of the most expensive material you can buy, marble, which shows the high status of the residents on the avenue. There’s a theme of expressing devotion here, many figures resembling angels gazing piously into the sky where at some point during the day sunlight will shine upon the stone faces, rewarding them for being faithful followers.

· The Grim Reaper

Perhaps the most popular site in Melaten is this one; The Reaper standing tall as he grips his scythe and hourglass, serving as a Momento Mori to passers-by reminding them of the impending certainty of death. This is where Martin lies, a young boy who lost his life at a young age. His parents decided to commemorate his passing in a powerful manner, portraying death in a caring demeanour that takes pain away and gives eternal peace, exploring the grief of a child and how finite our lives really are. A notable aspect of this site is sitting just next to death, soaking up the sun whilst reclining on a rock – is Martin. He is represented as a frog who looks happy and calm, in a better place.

· The Witches

Like other places across Europe and America during the 1600’s Witchcraft was a topic of persecution, approximately 60,000 women in Europe were killed after being accused of being a witch. It’s likely that women were burnt at the stake on the grounds of Melaten, which just adds to the horrifically grim reality of history. As you walk around the serene walkways within the graveyard, taking in the placid atmosphere and enjoying the many kinds of wildlife that live within the gates, it’s striking to feel the weight of the people, events, woes, tragedies celebrations that have occurred all in one location over the centuries. It’s almost like Melaten is whispering to you.

· Soldier’s Graves and War Memorials

Within the cemetery there’s a clash of beliefs, classes and motivations. There are graves of both men who fought with and against Napolean during the 1800’s, including that of an Irish soldier who fought against the French – his plot has a clue of his identity due to the Celtic Cross shaping his gravestone.

· The Farina Graves

Johann Maria Farina was a perfumer who came to Cologne from Italy in 1706 with his family. When he joined the family company, he introduced a scent named Aqua mirabilis (Miracle Water) which had a lighter smell with citrus notes. This perfume became well renowned and was eventually named Eau De Cologne as a reference to his adopted home. The whole Farina family are buried at Melaten and have an impressively large plot to fit them all, a truly iconic grave with a huge legacy.

Pitt Stop

When the tour ended, we went for one more stroll around the grounds before moving onto our next destination.

We walked back into the city centre via the Belgian Quarter as Dan had found a place where he could sample a traditional German snack. Päffgan Kölsch Brauhaus first started serving beer in 1883 and is Cologne’s oldest brewery. You enter through the doorway to a lovely dark wood interior where you can see the waiters pouring Kölsch directly from the barrel. We sat in the beer garden out the back (tip: don’t sit under the plastic sunroof if it’s sunny as you will boil alive). Dan ordered his meal and when it arrived, we realised it was simply bread, raw mincemeat and onion. Dan’s comments on the taste was ‘pretty much what you would expect’

Art Museum

After resting our weary feet for a while, we then walked for 20 minutes over to the Wallraf-Richartz-Museum. As an art lover this was right up my alley, this gallery houses pieces from the medieval period all the way up to the early 20th century. I’m a sucker for religious art as it fascinates me how people throughout time have based their whole existence, identity and motivations around their beliefs - it also fascinates me to see how religion has been used as a control mechanism. Wallraf-Richartz has a mighty plethora of pieces displaying how faith has impacted the daily life of people across Europe for nearly a millennia, from biblical scenes to vast scenes of worship. It’s definitely a thought provoking visit and one I would recommend. As well as this, take the opportunity to appreciate delicate landscapes, beautifully painted women, vibrant flowers and intense battles. I loved walking through the halls and learning about the history of each piece, and the story of the person portrayed on the canvas.

I found the sunlight and it’s reflection on the water to be striking

The colour scale of this painting makes me think of marble, the lines and shadows are so finely intricate, in a darker light it almost jumps out of the frame

We must have wandered around the gallery for a good while, as it was early evening by the time we left.

We headed back to the hotel to relax for a bit before going out for dinner, note to self: next time you go on a city break, bring a pair of shoes that aren’t platform boots so you can walk long distances without the fear of getting shin splints!

Our next meal was at the Brauerei zur Malzmühle (Malzmühle Brewery) and again we were greeted with a traditional eatery with classic long benches filled with people enjoying a drink on their Saturday night. I had a salad that included fried potatoes, by this point I was gathering that German food revolved heavily around this vegetable but I wasn’t mad at it. Dan ordered some arrangement of meat and potatoes along with a beer of course. I enjoy the atmosphere of these places, you can feel the energy of everyone gathering to drink and have fun, the air filled with laughter and animated conversation. After our meal we decided to walk around the square, which was a hive of activity with people celebrating the weekend.

Another great pleasure we had was seeing the Cathedral at night, if you think it looks good in the daytime then it looks purely spectral in the moonlight. They’ve lit it from underneath, which leads to haunting shadows being cast across the great expanses of weathered stone, we were once again in awe at its magnitude and it’s ability to dominate the city skyline in a truly epic way. There are gargoyles that hang from above, glaring menacingly at you from the rafters - there’s no doubt this is gothic architecture at some of it’s finest.

You can see some of the carvings of Holy Saints around the doorway, this design is featured around the exterior including many different Saints throughout the ages with their signifying emblems.

Day #3

This day was Amphi Festival, the main reason for us coming to Cologne. I was excited to just go with the flow and and enjoy some good music.

The festival runs all weekend but we opted to go for a single day ticket, wanting to split more time between sightseeing and seeing the rest of the city. 2026’s rendition of the festival celebrates 20 years of Amphi, taking place in the venue Tanzbrunnen nestled in a parkland on the riverfront. There’s a wide selection of alternative musicians invited to play and many genres including; goth, metal, new wave, post-punk, industrial, EDM and much more.

We made sure we looked the part, eyeliner donned and we were on our way.

There were acts on from mid-morning but I couldn’t bring myself to get up that early after all the exploring, so we agreed to arrive at 2.30PM and have a look around the grounds. When we showed our ticket to the staff, we were given two little fridge magnets in the shape of a bat with the festival logo on them - I thought this was a nice touch and a quirky little souvenir to take home with us.

There were 3 stages, 2 of which were inside the Tanzbrunnen grounds and only a short walk between each other. Uniquely, the 3rd stage was aboard a boat floating on the Rhine! I thought that was a clever way of making the most of your surroundings, and bonus points for getting a great view of the city whilst on board.

Surrounding the Main Stage area there were lots of food vendors selling sweet and savoury snacks, and of course a fair few beer stands. We were impressed with the merchant tents selling clothes and trinkets, some highlights were the New Rock shop and the Cyberdog pop-up which I’ve never seen at gigs/festivals before and always enjoy a browse through.

Set #1

Our first set of the day was Solitary Experiments at the Main Stage, a Berlin based band with deep roots in the electronic music scene. I adore synthpop and anything with a good tune so I enjoyed this set, each song had a strong beat to dance to. If you’re into Depeche Mode and want to experience that synth 80’s feel - this band is for you!

After their set we took the opportunity to relax at the waterside bar, which was set up like a beach. Imagine hundreds off goths reclining in a big sandpit on deck chairs in the spitting rain, it was just as comical as it sounds.

Set #2

The next performance was the whole reason we’d booked the trip. Lebanon Hanover, An English-Swiss duo that have been making experimental sound since 2010, determined to push boundaries in a darkwave style honouring the gothic romanticism of the 80’s. I get great nostalgia listening to their tracks so this felt like a full circle moment, reminding me of my rebellious teen years. They have various hits including; Gallowdance, Sadness is Rebellion, Kiss Me Until My Lips Fall Off and many more intensely moody tracks - of which they performed all of them, causing a sea of gothic swaying amongst the crowd. The blending of Larissa Iceglass’ smoothly controlled vocals and William Maybelline’s raw and cutting tone leaves for a consuming listening experience. But what surprised me the most about their live show was how much it contrasted from their recorded material, which almost comes across as reserved when compared to the instrumental journey if you’re lucky enough to see it in person. Maybelline’s deep delivery of the lyrics develops into a harsh and gritty performance, the pair take you on a gloomy and cacophonous journey - which is what they’re famed and loved for. There was definitely a crescendo of energy with Iceglass on the keyboard/synthesiser and Maybelline’s singing/surging drones of the bass, both band members just purely playing each song with all their heart.

We both thought that they performed wonderfully, in their characteristic moody fashion.

Day #4

It was with heavy hearts we checked out on the Monday morning, our final day in Cologne was upon us. We were sad to be leaving, but had left the most anticipated activity til last - climbing the Cathedral.

Kölner Dom

Famed as one of Germany's gothic masterpieces, the structure has been under construction for 632 years and contains many ornate artefacts. Some notable features are one of the earliest depictions of the cross (970 AD), as well as housing spectacular stained glass windows dating back to the 13th century (the ‘Bible Window’ behind the High Altar). Building began in 1248 with the purpose of creating a grand worshiping place for the relics of the Three Wise Men. This architectural wonder has stood for centuries, surviving the bombardment of World War II and even being used as a prison during the French Revolution - I’m sure if the walls could talk they’d have a tale or two!

We booked our tickets at the Dom shop, located across the square which took us a minute to find. We opted for the general admittance the Cathedral alongside the tower climb experience.

Honestly photos don’t do it enough justice, the feeling you get as you walk into the main nave and gaze up at the high walls adorned with beautiful statues and intricate stonework is unlike anything else. There’s lots of sections to see, many bishops are buried inside and even Rixa - the first queen of Poland is laid to rest here. The largest exhibition to see is the High Altar which holds the golden shrine of the Three Kings (the Biblical Magi). This was built between 1180-1225 to hold the bones of Balthasar, Melchior and Capsar - an impressive sight that an average of 6 million people visit each year. Even though it was very crowded when we visited, the atmosphere was calm and pondering.

After thoroughly exploring each section, including downstairs where you can see the original foundations of the building, we left the hall to begin our climb.

You have to go downstairs outside to another entrance for this, you enter deeper into the belly of the beast to start your ascent. There’s 533 steps to climb to reach the top of the South Tower, traveling up a mesmerizing spiral stone staircase that has a hypnotizing effect on anyone venturing up it - imagine the workers who have to do this everyday!

You’re given glances out the small windows of the city getting smaller and further away - it’s definitely dizzying. Once you’ve reached the top you’re greeted with the Belfry, this is about the point I’d remembered all of those gargoyles dangling from the walls at this great height (53 meters vertically upwards) . This isn’t the end though, but it is an ideal spot to catch your breath.

When you feel fit enough to carry on there’s another metal spiral staircase to conquer before you’ve finally reach the top of the tower. At this point in the journey I became very aware how great of a height we were at, nearly making my knees buckle! After a fairly easy climb compared to the first ascent, you’ve reached the summit - congratulations :) And you’re rewarded with a panoramic view of city, able to see for miles to the hills in the distance and the vast German landscape. You can walk around the perimeter of the bell tower and stand on the very edge, feeling very accomplished. There are great opportunities to get a closer look at the design of the exterior stonework - an added bonus for us was getting to see the building being worked on, brave stonemason’s were hanging from scaffolding to restore some of the top spires.

It’s exhilarating to be so high up, especially when you realize you’re now head level with the monuments you have to crane your neck to see when you’re on ground level. After we finished admiring the artistry we began the descent down the long, twirling staircase and I view the fact my legs only slightly turned to jelly as a win!

By this time, we’d worked up an appetite so headed to Früh Brauhaus for another traditional snack. Dan ordered the potato fritters ( or Reibekuchen as they’re locally known) which are a favourite dish of the city. They were crispy and buttery, served with an accompanying slice of dark bread to soak up all the fat - I imagine they’d be the perfect hangover cure. They are generous with the butter so it was a rich dining experience.

Romano-Germanic Museum

To walk off our lunch we strolled over to the Roman-German museum to learn more about Cologne’s history. It’s an immaculately kept exhibit, usually displayed in the building next to the cathedral but due to renovations it’s temporary home is the Belgian House (Belgisches Haus) a bit further away from the center. This was a shame as I wanted to see the Roman mosaic which was uncovered from the floor, when it’s reopened I’d definitely recommend a visit.

nonetheless, the museum was very educational and gave an insight into what life was like for people living here during the reign of the Roman Empire.

FUN FACT: Cologne is actually short for Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium, the city was given its name by the Emperor Claudius to commemorate his wife, Aggripina, who was born there.

There’s many Roman gravestones and statues, delicately positioned ladies in polished alabaster. I found it to be enlightening and a good way to spend some time - the trip can’t be 100% beer and music, gotta get the history in too.

Ehrenfeld

We still had time to kill before our flight later that night, so we decided to check out Ehrenfeld, another neighbourhood deemed to be trendy. After a fairly short U-Bahn journey we reached our destination (Tip: always have some change on you as most public toilets are pay-to-use, don’t ask me how I know). Generally known to be one of Cologne’s alternative and musical districts, this area is filled with eclectic shops and cool restaurants from all over the world. As we walked through the main strip, we were greeted by amazing looking cafe’s and groups of very cool people drifting in and out of thrift shops, I wanted to be a local in that moment who was meandering up the high street on my way to meet friends at a hip bar for a drink - but unfortunately, I was a slightly sweaty tourist who only had a few precious hours to spend here. It reminded me of some of the edgy neighbourhoods in outer Melbourne - Fitzroy/Brunswick adjacent.

So long, farewell…

Time was against us by this point so we had to head back into the city centre, last mission of the trip was to find somewhere to have our last meal in Cologne. Walking back through the streets we stumbled upon Servus Colonia Alpina - a novel tavern designed to look like an alpine lodge, located near the Heumarkt it serves traditional grub in a bustling part of town. It was a tad gimmicky but I actually really enjoyed myself, I ordered a salad whilst Dan got a sausage dish and a Spaten beer which is comically displayed on a conveyor belt revolving around the bar. We enjoyed our meals, and even got a free shot of hazelnut liqueur at the end to sweeten the deal. The atmosphere was fun and we had a good laugh here.

But then the time was upon us, we collected our bags from the hotel and headed to the airport. We were sad to leave, but made sure to get one last look at the Cathedral on the way out - if possible, it looked even more impressive than it did before. After sitting on the iconic steps for a minute it was time to say goodbye to Cologne, we managed to steal a final glimpse of the Dom as we walked into Hauptbahnhof station - so with full stomach’s, educated minds and heavy hearts, Cologne was now just a view out of the train window as we departed the platform.

I’d highly recommend this city trip to anyone looking for tasty food, nice sightseeing and plenty of culture. There’s something for everybody!

Highlight Tips:

Public transport is practical here, you’re well linked to all of the major attractions and travelling is an easy way to get around the city.
When you catch the train from the airport, you have to use electronic ticket machines. To get to the centre select the station ‘Köln HBF’ and opt for an ‘Einselticket’ (Single fare) - there was quite a crowd of confused travellers trying to figure this out!
Vegan/Vegetarian options: Whilst veggie food is available, it’s harder to come across and is often very potato based (so be warned). Just make sure you find a restaurant that’s suitable for you, as some places have a limited menu or are very meat based. There are lots of sweet treats to choose from though - I had an amazing apple strudel!

That’s all from me for now, HAPPY TRAVELLING <3

Cologne: A Rough Guide of Adventures